Highlights
This 4-week itinerary combines a visit to Sulawesi Island with a 11-night liveaboard (dive boat) on the Damai II through the Forgotten Islands, Banda Sea & Raja Ampat. The trip started with a flight from Cairns in northwestern Australia to Bali where I spent the weekend on the Bukit Peninsula. Next I flew to Sulawesi where I did a 3-day private tour of the cemeteries and funerary ceremonies in Tana Toraja, 4 days of diving around Bunaken Island and a visit to the extreme market in Tomohon, located in the mountains outside of Manado. The 11-night liveaboard trip started from Saumlaki Island, in the South Banda Sea and ended in Sorong, Raja Ampat.
Date of Trip: October 8 to November 4, 2023
Itinerary
Bukit Peninsula, Bali – 2 Nights
Staying at Bingin Beach
With only 2 days on Bali before moving on to Sulawesi I spent my time in the Bingin Beach area on the west side of the Bukit Peninsula. Lonely Planet touts this area as one of “Bukit’s coolest places to stay.” Post discusses why I disagree.
Makassar, Sulawesi – 1 Night
The timing of flights required that I stay a night in Makassar.
Tana Toraja, Sulawesi – 4 Nights
Tana Toraja Cemeteries
The cemeteries of Tana Toraja are unlike any I have seen anywhere. Graves in caves or niches carved in the cliff face are marked with wooden statues representing the deceased.
Tana Toraja Funeral Ceremonies
Funeral ceremonies follow specific traditions and may include animal sacrifices. On my first funeral visit they were in the process of butchering the buffalo to distribute the meat among the family. At my second funeral visit, I saw the softer side of the traditions – the procession of the family groups, singing and dancing and eating with the family.
Tana Toraja Mountain Walks
The Tana Toraja region is also known for beautiful mountain walks overlooking terraced rice fields and passing through local villages.
Sleeping and Dining in Rantepao
Rantepao has the most comfortable lodging for visitors to the region. Post also includes a visit the the buffalo market, touted as the largest such market in the world.
Makassar, Sulawesi – 1 Night
The timing of my flights required that I stay a night in Makassar.
Siladen Dive Resort, Sulawesi – 4 Nights
Dive Sites at Siladen Resort
Siladen Island, a small island off the coast of Bunaken Island, has the same access to Bunaken National Park dive sites as staying on Bunaken. Most of the dive sites around Bunaken are walls, but there is also muck diving toward the Sulawesi mainland.
Siladen Resort and Spa
This upscale dive resort has a relaxed vibe and is popular with repeat guests.
Tomohon, Sulawesi – 2 Nights
Extreme Market
The Tomohon Market is know for exotic animals – rats, bats, dogs and snakes. Post also includes sleeping and dining at Gardenia Country Inn.
Ambon – 1 Night
See Logistics and Getting to Saumlaki below for a review of Spice Island Diver on Ambon.
Saumlaki – 1 Night
See Logistics and Getting to Saumlaki below for a review of Hotel Bukit Indah on Saumlaki.
Forgotten Islands, Banda Sea & Raja Ampat on the Damai II – 11 Nights
Raja Ampat is one of the world’s top dive destinations for good reason. The abundance of colorful fish, beautiful hard and soft corals and interesting critters is hard to beat. Throw in a few large pelagics such as mantas and hammerheads and you have an unforgettable diving experience.
The 11 day trip on the Damai II, a luxury dive boat, embarks at Saumlaki and runs an itinerary through the Forgotten Islands of the Banda Sea and ends with several days of diving in Raja Ampat before disembarking in Sorong.
Dive Sites – Part 1
Dive Sites – Part 2
Dive Sites – Part 3
Logistics and Getting to Saumlaki
Post includes reviews of the Damai II as well as Spice Island Divers on Ambon and Hotel Bukit Indah on Saumlaki.