Lanemaa National Park, located on the north coast of Estonia east of Tallinn, is known for its historical sites and natural beauty as rolling hills and forest meet the sea. In late September with the leaves changing and the light low it’s particularly picturesque.
Coastal Drive
On a gorgeous late September day we just picked a peninsula, Perispea (north of Loska), and headed for the sea. We loved the quaint forested roads that wind along the coast passing through small towns. Beautiful light shimmers through the trees and on the water.
For lunch we stopped in Viinistu. On a Saturday afternoon Viinistu Restaurant and Bar was about half full, probably great for this time of year. The nautical themed restaurant with white paneled walls and medium wood furniture has a causal upscale feel. We ordered the whole “carp” which turned out to be sea bream, thank goodness, and the herring with potatoes, grated egg and sour cream. Both dishes were well executed and tasty.
Altja
This old fishing village at the east end of the park has a number of restored historic buildings mixed in with currently occupied houses. A lovely walk takes you out to the cape and along a beach fronted forest path with great views out to sea. The area also has good examples of large erratic rocks, boulders carried here from Finland by past glaciers. When the light is right it is a beautiful spot.
Palmse Manor
Considered the highlight of the Lahemaa National Park by Lonely Planet Palmse Manor house, completely furnished with period pieces, is a delight to tour, especially if you can catch it between tour groups. It feels like a real 18th century home with all the rooms furnished and decorated including a dressing closet with period costumes and an old kitchen. In the wine cellar you can taste Estonian fruit wines for an additional charge.
Despite the rainy morning the grounds were lovely with punches of fall color but few flower beds. The extensive grounds include a small lake and a number gardens and outbuildings including an orangery with two large palm trees and a cactus garden along with myriad house plants.
September 28-29, 2019
For links to all the posts in this series see the Baltics Road Trip page.