Karlamuiza, a small country manor located 12k outside of Cesis, is a Lonely Planet top pick. It could be a pleasant country stay but it just misses the mark.
The setting, an old apple orchard with fields beyond and a pond in front, is almost idyllic. The manor’s downstairs, where reception and the restaurant is, lacks a welcoming vibe with a too open floor plan and lack of design, theme or coziness.
Our bedroom, the Elizabeth room, was charming with big windows and a balcony overlooking the orchard. The balcony has seen better days and is in need of repair. The bed is saggy and uncomfortable, but otherwise the huge room is a pleasant place to hang out with a sofa on one side and a large screen TV. The bathroom is OK, a large enough space but a small sink and shower.
Breakfast
The breakfast buffet was a nice spread with a number of meats including liverwurst and cheese options. The breads were a bit hard, not much fruit, OK coffee from a machine, the usual cereal options and a terrible apple tart with one of the toughest pastries I’ve ever tasted. Hot items included a tray of fried eggs and sausage.
Dinner at Karlamuiza
The inn offers a 3 course pre fixe dinner. The simple homemade food using local ingredients was certainly not as inventive as the dinners we’ve been having in town, but well executed and tasty. First course was a flavorful spinach and zucchini soup tasting more of the former than the later.
Second course was lasagna of sorts with layers of mashed potato, vegetables, meat and cheese. For dessert an apple tart with caramel sauce served with wild berry ice cream. Nice flavors but the pastry a bit tough. Their wine selection is also not as good as restaurants in town.
The dining room is a large open space with hard tile floors and light wood tables. Odd historical maps and photos decorate the walls. Not the most inviting space.
September 24, 2019
For links to all the posts in this series see the Baltics Road Trip page.