The trail from Lungdhen (4380m) to Thame (3800m) through the river valley west of Namche Bazaar is a pleasant walk away from the masses.
Even at this lower elevation I had another night plagued by sleep apnea. In some ways it feels like I’m less acclimatized than I was a week ago. Last week at 4700 meters I could sleep through the night. Now I spend half the night fighting for breath.
Today is an easy 3 hour walk down the valley. The morning started clear and cold. Walking into the sun the peaks are dramatic but not well lit. Behind us the landscape is nicely lit but not as dramatic.
Heading down the valley we’re back in the agricultural basin with tidy homesteads and yaks grazing along the river banks. The river is stunning. Glacial waters tumble down the valley winding through immense boulders.
Just before you arrive in Thame you pass through Thameteng which can be seen from a distance down the valley.
From Thameteng Thame is a short push over a hill and back down. The pleasant village boasts fabulous mountain views, that is, if you can see them through the clouds. The views are best in the afternoon as the sun rises behind Thamserku and Kangtega.
Clouds were already rolling in when we arrived at just after 11AM and by 3:30 we were socked in for the day.
The Valley View Guesthouse is a friendly place. We got an “upscale” room with an actual ledge to put our belongings on and a bathroom with a toilet and sink. Although the floor is cold bare concrete, real curtains hang on the windows that adorn 2 sides of room. The food is the typical Nepalese fare with better that average dal bhat seasoned with cumin.
Monastery above Town
For the acclimated and not too tired trekker the walk to the monastery above town is an easy 30 minute climb past stupas and along a pathway of carved prayer stone tablets.
The monastery itself is a modest compound. Helpful boys near the base of the buildings will point you in the right direction. At 3PM they have prayers, visitors welcome, but a sign says you have to leave your belongings and shoes outside so we opted not to enter the inner rooms.
The top afforded occasional views of the snowy peaks before the clouds completely closed in.
October 19, 2018
For links to all the posts in this series see the 3 Passes Trek page.