Carbonaki Hotel
Carbonaki Hotel has a quiet yet convenient location about 5-minute walk up from the harbor on the end opposite the old port. Still less than a 10 minute walk to the old port.
Rooms are more spacious than at many of the hotels we have recently been staying . Amenities are on par with other hotels – hair dryer, safe, toiletries, small Euro bathroom, weakish wifi.
Staff is very helpful with bus schedules to beaches, beach towels, and advice on how to reach the new port – take the sea bus from the old port, a 10-minute ride that leaves every hour on the hour, 2 Euros – much cheaper than taking a taxi.
Breakfast is served in a lovely room just off the lobby. It isn’t included in the price but at just 20 Euros for the two of us for two days it’s a bargain.
They serve you a variety of items, starting with Tang and a choice of coffee or tea, followed by a bread basket, jam and butter, yogurt with fruit and muesli, a cheese and cold-cut platter, small croissants and a fresh hot soft boil egg.
Restaurants
Kounelas Fish Tavern
With a garden setting just in from the port, this is the place to come for fish. We arrived just before sunset and within 15 minutes the place had filled. These folks know how to do fish. Don picked out a smaller fish for one person. Dorade was the only species available in this category – no matter it’s one of our favorites.
I was in heaven when I saw linguine with squid in squid ink sauce on the menu, one of my all-time favorite dishes that I never see in the US. They do a nice job of it. Not the best I’ve ever had but since I find this dish so rarely I love it nearly every time. For me this dish just tastes like the sea, a little salty with a slight metallic overtone.
We started with arugula salad. Fresh greens that were overpriced, but most things are here. Dinner ended with a complementary yogurt topped with preserved sour cherry and fig and a small bottle of a local sweet anise flavored digestive. Very friendly and attentive service.
M-Eating
At this popular establishment we were lucky to get in on a last minute cancellation. While at most restaurants reservations are not necessary in May, M-Eating is in another class. In fact it’s the nicest place we’ve eaten at since we have been in Greece. It’s also more expensive, but not more than at a nice restaurant in a first tier city in the US. If dining is your thing then the food and ambiance is definitely worth the price.
The outside covered terrace has a lovely casual elegant feel with worn soft beige furniture and thoughtful decorations. Food presentation is equally meticulous, focusing on quality rather than quantity. Still, we didn’t find the portions too skimpy. The waiter warned us that the pasta dishes are really portioned as an appetizer. We found them adequate for a main after splitting an appetizer.
We started with the octopus and squid served over a fava and chickpea puree – a lovely dish, the octopus and squid exquisitely tender and succulent.
For mains we had the orzo pasta with shrimp and the lamb sous-vide, both artfully presented and beautifully cooked. We shared both dishes, the all-protein dish complementing the mostly starch dish nicely.
Luscious chocolate morsels are served with the check.
May 27-29, 2016
For links to all the posts in this series see the Greece page.