Bad night last night with more digestive difficulties. Either I didn’t get rid of the bug or the altitude meds are playing havoc on my system. We’re ascending today so I can’t stop taking them now. Took another round of Cipro but I don’t know if it’ll do any good at this point.
After the usual breakfast, fried eggs and a pancake for me and some chapati-type bread for Don, we head out just before 8AM. Laxmi says it’s just five hours walking slowly to Deurali. The first part, through the bamboo forest, is damp and much colder than it has been.
The trail rises steadily with fewer steep sections and is pretty packed this morning. It isn’t until just before Himalaya that the forest opens up and we’re out in the sun again with astounding views of the glacial river below.
Past Himalaya it’s a steep climb up through a much drier forest before reaching Hinku Cave. From here you can see the trail drop closer to the river before climbing again to Deurali, the most scenic stretch of the day.
The vegetation is more sparse, allowing magical views of the valley, the river below, and the sheer rock face cliffs above with bands of wispy waterfalls. We pass several tributaries over log and grass bridges. The traffic remains heavy.
The owner of the Panorama Guest House has a broad smile full of white teeth. The sunny terrace has the promised “panoramic” views of the cliffs, a smallish waterfall and the rushing river below. It doesn’t feel quite as cold as the damp bamboo forest and it’s delightful to be somewhere dry again.
In the small dining room I play spoons with the girls. They get a great kick out of playing over and over again as fast as they can. Laxmi has the giggles and is a bit loopy. She says it’s from drinking too much ginger tea, a remedy she uses for the cold/cough she has come down with.
As the sun sets the fog rolls in up the valley.
November 2, 2012
For links to all the posts related to the trek see the Annapurna Base Camp page.
For links to all the posts in this series see the Nepal page.