Northern India – Agra and the Taj Mahal

Getting off the train in Agra the scene was much more what I was expecting of India, a chaotic jumble of sounds, smells and activity. Our driver from Four Wheel Drive India picked us up in a spiffy white Toyota Innova and whisked us off through the haze and lively streets of Agra.

A mix of poverty, crumbly buildings, small dilapidated shops, dirty children, broken down trucks, bicyclists pulling large loads of everything from cardboard to sacks of potatoes, cows, goats, dogs, monkeys and  women dressed in beautiful flowing fabrics adding a touch of color to an otherwise dismal but fascinating setting.

The Jaypee Palace, a large resort complex, is full on “bubble land” protected from the hubbub that comes with “normal” life in India. Some may find this a blessing. I feel isolated from one of the main reasons I travel, to experience the local culture, whatever that may be. The hotel and grounds are huge, rooms are large and comfortable, and service is adequate and friendly. However you might as well be staying at a Marriott in Orlando. As the hotel is a couple of kilometers from the center of town, don’t expect to be able to walk easily to town for dinner or to see the Taj.

Sight-seeing in Agra

Akbar’s Mausoleum

About 10k outside of town, this Mughal tomb complex looks much like other mausoleums built in the early to mid-1600s including the Taj Mahal. If you are short on time, this is the one to skip.

Baby Taj

Itimad-ud-Daulah, nicked named the Baby Taj, set along the Yamuna river has a more striking setting than that of Akbar’s Mausoleum. Built in the early 1600s of white marble it is similar in style to the Taj, but offers a more tranquil ambiance, allowing a more detailed study of the pietra dura, stone inlay work, without the masses that visit the Ta

Red Fort

A Mughal fort first started by Emperor Akbar in 1565, it was turned into a palace in the mid 17^th century. With many of the complex’s structures still intact you don’t need much imagination to envision the grandeur that this fort once had. Although only a small percentage of the buildings are open to the public there is still much to appreciate, including sandstone carvings and marble inlay.

The Taj Mahal at Sunset

The recommended viewpoint is across the river on the north side of the Taj at either Mehtab Bagh Park or for free at the end of the road that runs just in front of the park. At certain times of the year the soft glow of the setting sun on the Taj may be magical, but on hazy day, don’t bother. The waning sun disappears into the haze before it ever reaches the horizon.

Taj Mahal at Sunrise

6:30AM is a highly recommended time to visit the Taj that every tour guide and guide books follows creating long lines crowding at the entrance when the monument opens. It took an hour to reach the entrance and go through security, which, by the way, is very tight. Bags of all kinds are strongly discouraged, but you can bring in a small bag, or camera bag. Again, like the sunset viewing, the morning glow doesn’t occur if the sky is hazy. Sleep in and wait for the crowds to subside. By 8:30AM when we were leaving the park, there wasn’t a soul in line and the light was perfect for photography.

The Taj is a truly beautiful structure that everyone who visits the region should see. With so many visitors crowding the small and dark inner sanctum it’s hard to appreciate the delicate detail of the pietra dura, marble inlay. But do try to find a quiet spot to examine the flower petals closely. Not simply one block of color for the entire flower but rather each petal is divided into 3 to 4 inlay segments that fit tightly together as if they were painted.

October 20, 2012

For links to all the posts in this series see the Northern India page.